1/3/2024 0 Comments Diy external overflow box![]() ![]() ![]() Going toothless for most builds circumstances is much easier than going C to C. Lose the teeth and you double the linear surface area for the water to flow over. Ironically both methods roughly give you the same amount of gain as teeth usually take up 1/2 of your overflow. Running the overflow toothless, and running the overflow the length of the tank both are designs/methods that allow the thinnest sheet of water possible to be taken from the tank regardless of how much flow we are Every little thing we do to improve set up adds up to how efficient the system really is. Display design starts with the sump/equipmentĬlick to expand.Of course its not necessary. Its a built in back up in case one gets clogged, the system will still drain without issues.ĭesigning a display tank reminds me of designing a skimmer. Split it and have two duplicate drains (Beans design hits on that). If you want 900gph into the sump, then have enough drain capacity to drain 1800gph. So, what and how is the sump being planned?Īs for capacity of the drains themselves, I always try to have twice as much drain capacity as I have draining. If you plan on a skimmer and a refugium, and you split them up so that one is in each end of the sump and drain to the center, then you need more flow than if the sump was setup to run from one end to the other. How much flow you put through it depends on what is going in the sump and even how the sump is laid out. I have never run one but everything I have ever read where people used them, they are as advertised and dead silent. Although the external does look better when viewing than an internal. It can be suspended just like an external. And, an internal overflow doesn't have to run to the bottom of the tank. If your overflow box is 6x12, the internal has 24" of surface area into the box, the external would have 12". If you aren't doing a coast-to-coast, then an internal overflow will always be more efficient than an external. ![]()
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